The fortified enclave of San Casciano unfolds as a quintessential Tuscan tableau, characterized by slender pedestrian-only thoroughfares, arched stone passages, an imposing castle, and a piazza adorned with charming cafes. Beyond the town’s protective walls, the iconic landscapes of Val d’Orcia stretch in panoramic splendor, featuring undulating vineyards and olive orchards interspersed with cypress trees and the silhouette of distant hill towns.
While the picturesque scenery aligns with expectations, San Casciano offers more than just aesthetic allure. Descending from the town, nearly a millennium of hidden history, embedded in mineral-rich mud, is gradually coming to light, challenging established scholarly narratives surrounding the decline of the Etruscans and the ascent of the Romans.
A Time-Honored Spa
At the base of the same hill, along an inconspicuous dusty road known only to the initiated, vehicles gather in an improvised parking area. Armed with towels, visitors tread several hundred yards down the road to partake in an everyday yet remarkable activity—immersing themselves in thermal waters that have welled up from the earth for countless ages.
The shallow stone-crafted basins, constructed in the 1600s during San Casciano dei Bagni’s affiliation with the Medici-ruled Grand Duchy of Tuscany, offer a rustic charm. The pool bottoms, adorned with pebbles and sporadically slick with algae, don’t deter bathers, particularly considering these thermal baths are open to the public, in contrast to the exclusive pools at the nearby luxury resort. Maintained at a constant temperature of 42 degrees Celsius (107.6 Fahrenheit), the experience remains equally soothing, if a tad more unpretentious.
A short distance from the open-air thermal baths known as “terme libere” or free baths, a chain-link fence, concealed by a privacy screen and secured with a padlock, is the sole demarcation separating do-it-yourself spa enthusiasts from what could arguably be the most significant archaeological discovery in the Mediterranean of this century. This ancient thermal complex, dating back to the third century B.C., served as a revered site for healing before being ceremoniously abandoned in the fifth century A.D. Presently, the ongoing excavation at the site reveals compelling evidence that spans several centuries, demonstrating that amid profound social upheavals and nearly constant warfare, Etruscans and Romans congregated here for worship, offerings, and seeking remedies.
Within the therapeutic mud, notable discoveries include 24 bronze artifacts dating from the second century B.C. to the first century A.D. Many of these bronzes depict body parts such as feet, hands, ears, and even internal organs, including a uterus and viscera. Additionally, small statues portraying infants, children, elderly individuals, and deities were dedicated as offerings to the healing gods venerated at the site. While the purpose behind these offerings—whether supplications for healing or expressions of gratitude—is not always clear, some are explicitly labeled as “ex voto,” signifying an offering made in fulfillment of a vow.
During the recent summer, Jacopo Tabolli, the scientific director of the excavation, and his team of archaeologists and students continued their endeavors, uncovering more sections of the ancient thermal area and retrieving additional artifacts from the depths of the pools. These findings included a 6 1/2-foot-tall statue of Apollo and a travertine altar inscribed in both Latin and Etruscan—a further testament to the multicultural character of the site.
Tabolli remarks, “Excavating an intact Etruscan and Roman sanctuary just a few meters from the Renaissance open-air pools, where people are still bathing, is exceptional. It serves as a living demonstration of the enduring connection between these thermal-mineral waters and the sacred landscape, despite transformations in rites, cults, and practices.”
The perpetual significance of water, both as a tangible and symbolic bestower of life, extends beyond the confines of the excavation site. Agnese Carletti, the mayor of San Casciano dei Bagni, articulates, “We’re a town that thrives on tourism, and water has always been a constant presence.” Scheduled to open in 2024, a museum is in development to showcase the remarkable artifacts unearthed during the archaeological excavation.
Carletti emphasizes, “The most captivating aspect is that people still frequent the baths for the same reasons they did 2,300 years ago. The water remains an enduring force.”
Precautions
Getting there: San Casciano dei Bagni is situated in southeastern Tuscany, approximately 90 minutes from Siena and an hour from Orvieto. The closest train station is Fabro-Ficulle, around 35 minutes away.
Hotels: Fonteverde Spa, a 5-star thermal hotel, boasts multiple pools, saunas, and a comprehensive spa. Hotel Sette Querce is positioned at the entrance to the old town, while Aurora Agriturismo is a country house just a short distance from the free baths.
Bathing: To access the free baths, navigate down Via della Fontanaccia, either on foot or by car, with parking available at the Parcheggio Terme lot for drivers. Two bathing areas, Bagno Bossolo and, further along the path, Bagno Grande and the archaeological site, are located here. A footpath from the town center also leads to the baths. For Fonteverde, day passes are obtainable for spa pools and saunas.
Archaeology: Tours of the archaeological dig are presently offered on Saturdays and can be reserved through the San Casciano dei Bagni tourism office. Until the larger museum inauguration in 2024, a small exhibit featuring items from the dig is on display at the town offices.