A gusty gale sweeps through, driving snow horizontally against the windows as a group of elite freeride skiers gather, holding cups of steaming coffee, anticipating a break in the weather. These aren’t just ordinary skiers; they are the world’s best at navigating ungroomed terrain, congregating in Verbier for the culmination of the Freeride World Tour (FWT) on one of the planet’s most formidable slopes.
The notorious Bec des Rosses, where the FWT final originated in 1996 as Verbier Xtreme, is accompanied by a cautionary note on the Fatmap app for backcountry skiers, hikers, and bikers: “In case of a fall, the skier faces certain death.”
Despite Verbier’s association with opulence and allure, it is the presence of this formidable peak, along with equally daunting counterparts, that upholds Verbier’s standing as a haven for serious skiers and freeriders. FWT founder and local snowboarder Nicholas Hale-Woods affirms, “Verbier wants to, and will, keep that freeride vibe — it’s what made it great.”
While I may not be at FWT proficiency, my love for skiing steep, deep descents has led me back to Verbier virtually every year since 1993. Despite advancements in infrastructure, the town’s ambiance remains unchanged: streets bustling with skiers clad in mountaineering gear, and amid upscale sushi restaurants, there are burger joints and enduring landmarks like Pub Mont Fort and Fer à Cheval, where straightforward meals cost about the same as in a UK pub.
The vertical descent alone justifies the journey, especially for off-piste enthusiasts. A thigh-burning 1,830 meters from the summit of Mont Fort to the village makes Verbier’s lift-accessed off-piste among the finest in Europe. For those without a guide (essential for off-piste ventures), Verbier offers uniquely patrolled ‘itinerary’ runs that provide the thrill of off-piste adventure with reduced risk. Mont Gelé provides breathtaking views of the Grand Combin and Mont Blanc massif; Vallon D’Arby connects to La Tzoumaz. My personal favorite, Tortin, is a vast, north-facing descent from the top of the Lac des Vaux chairlift to Chassoure, featuring sections with pitches of up to 50 degrees that challenge even the most skilled skiers.
While the slopes may seem tailored to expert skiers, a long-anticipated lift connection from Verbier to Savoleyres is poised to enhance accessibility for all skill levels, opening up the adjacent resorts of La Tzoumaz, Nendaz, and Veysonnaz. This expansion will be covered by the 4 Vallées lift passes, maintaining competitive pricing within the region.
Accommodation in Verbier caters to a range of budgets. Alongside upscale options like W Verbier, 67 Pall Mall Verbier, or Richard Branson’s chalet, The Lodge, there are more affordable choices. These include 14 bed and breakfasts, 17 one- to three-star hotels, and a hostel in Le Châble. The local businesses spearheading tourism in Verbier exhibit a commitment to preserving the resort’s authentic, hardcore skiing roots. The Swedish owners of the newly established three-star Shed Hotel have opted for a contemporary, Scandinavian design and a laid-back ambiance to appeal to a younger freeride audience.
At the luxury end of the spectrum, Verbier is recognized for pushing boundaries. Adventurer Tom Avery, who founded the luxury chalet company Ski Verbier Exclusive in 2009, attributes his adventurous spirit to his time working in the resort as a driver and ski guide. Despite the wealth and success associated with Verbier, Avery notes its discreet nature compared to similar-profile resorts. He states, “Few of our guests ski off-piste, and you don’t need to spend a night in Cabane Mont Fort or go heliskiing on the Grand Combin — Verbier’s dramatic, high-alpine peaks are there the moment you open the curtains.”