In the heart of the Alps, Austria unfolds its picturesque charm during the winter months, showcasing centuries-old Alpine towns surrounded by idyllic farmland and cozy chalet hotels exuding warmth with open fires and hearty comfort food. In contrast to the expansive, purpose-built resorts in neighboring France, Austrian ski regions offer a postcard-perfect ambiance. Despite their quaint appearance, these regions boast exceptional skiing opportunities, featuring some of the world’s most advanced lifts and vast interconnected skiing areas.
One notable example is the Salzburger Sportwelt, linking seven resorts and providing access to 155 miles of pristine skiing terrain. This region is part of Ski Amadé, an extensive network encompassing over 500 miles of slopes and 270 lifts, accessible through a single lift pass. Ski Amadé includes standout areas such as Hochkönig, connecting the charming villages of Maria Alm, Dienten, and Mühlbach. Many Ski Amadé resorts are conveniently located within a day’s reach of Salzburg. Visitors can easily explore the vibrant city, with a complimentary bus service to Flachau for lift-pass holders, allowing them to ski during the day and enjoy a black-tie concert at the late-January Mozart Festival in the evening.
For those seeking a harmonious blend of city and ski experiences, Innsbruck, the Tyrolean capital, is an ideal destination. The Ski Plus City Pass covers 13 resorts, including the Stubai glacier, offering over 200 miles of impeccably groomed pistes and scenic routes. Austria stands as the second-most-popular skiing destination for British enthusiasts, following France. Its allure extends beyond skiing, captivating culinary travelers with locally brewed beer, schnapps, and a delectable array of hearty mountain fare. From the classic potato-and-meat fry-up known as gröstl to steaming bowls of goulash, apple strudel, and the renowned kaiserschmarren, Austria’s culinary offerings are as inviting as its snow-covered landscapes.
Among the well-known Austrian ski resorts, St Anton in Tyrol stands out, celebrated for its exceptional skiing, especially off-piste adventures, and vibrant nightlife. Renowned for the lively atmosphere, it offers the unique experience of dancing on tables while wearing ski boots. However, beyond the exuberance, St Anton also exudes a more refined ambiance. As part of Ski Arlberg, along with St Christoph, Stuben, Zürs, Warth, Schröcken, and Lech—the latter having been a favorite of the British royal family—St Anton is Austria’s largest interconnected ski resort. It spans over 180 miles of meticulously groomed pistes and 120 miles of off-piste trails.
Kitzbühel, also located in Tyrol, presents a different charm, recognized for hosting the prestigious Hahnenkamm Races, a highlight on the FIS Alpine Ski World Cup calendar. The local KitzSki area boasts 145 miles of well-maintained pistes and is now linked to SkiWelt Wilder Kaiser-Brixental, providing access to an additional 170 miles of runs. Another distinctive option is the lakeside spa town of Zell am See-Kaprun, located south of Salzburg, offering breathtaking views. Serving as both a charming ski destination and now connected to the broader Skicircus Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrun winter sports area, it provides a unique skiing experience.
While visiting in the later part of the ski season may entail some uncertainty about snow conditions, it offers the opportunity to partake in Austria’s diverse spring festivals. Additionally, this period provides a more relaxed skiing experience, with warmer temperatures typically expected from April onwards—though it’s worth noting that conditions reminiscent of winter can persist until Easter.
A noteworthy addition for the current season is a joint lift pass covering two smaller areas, Kappl and See, featuring a combined 55 miles of runs accessible by shuttle bus. Both areas are also included in the Silvretta ski pass, encompassing the renowned Ischgl. This joint pass presents a cost-effective option, particularly suitable for families who may not require access to the entire ski area.
Austria boasts some of the Alps’ most advanced lifts, and Stuben in the west is exemplifying this trend by replacing its 1983 two-seater chairlift with a modern eight-person gondola. Moreover, there is a concerted effort to make skiing in Austria more environmentally friendly. A notable example is Saalfelden-Leogang, which has transitioned to using plant-based fuel for its piste-grooming machines, resulting in a substantial 90% reduction in CO2 emissions.
Embarking on a day trip to Kühtai, I join a diverse group on a 9 am departure from Innsbruck. The eclectic mix includes a couple in vintage ski attire, sledging enthusiasts with wooden sledges, a woman donning a pristine all-in-one ski suit, and myself. With a week-long agenda to explore some of the 13 ski resorts covered by Innsbruck’s Ski Plus City Pass, my specific destination is Kühtai, a resort situated 20 miles to the west, accessible by a scenic 45-minute bus journey.
Kühtai, nestled on a sunny plateau at an altitude of 2,020 meters, ranks among Austria’s highest ski villages, ensuring a reliable supply of snow. Its compact and straightforward layout makes it particularly appealing, even for those, like me, who may find piste maps and chairlift names challenging. The central high street serves as the heart of the bowl-shaped resort, with pistes conveniently numbered for easy navigation.
My exploration of Kühtai commences with the Drei-Seen-Bahn lift, ascending to 2,410 meters, followed by a clockwise exploration of the resort’s seven chairlifts. Along the way, a pit stop at Zum Kaiser Maximilian offers a delightful interlude with a beer and a bowl of delicious noodle soup. The slopes, characterized by their breadth and undulating terrain, culminate in a moderately steep descent into town, providing various lift options for the next ascent.
Due to its modest size, spanning just 27 miles of pistes, Kühtai proves ideal for families and beginners. Overnight stays are accommodated by a range of ski-in, ski-out self-catering options, complemented by a dedicated play area for children. Additionally, hourly ski passes cater to novice skiers seeking a brief introductory session.
The adjacent resort of Hochoetz is seamlessly integrated into the Kühtai ski pass and is easily accessible via a complimentary shuttle service. With added attractions like freestyle, snowcross, and ski touring options, Kühtai presents itself as an appealing week-long destination. Concluding my day with runs off the HochAlterBahn lift, Kühtai’s highest point, I note that piste number one is illuminated for night skiing, although my bus back to town beckons.
12 Hours in Innsbruck
Breakfast
Embark on tram 1 to Bergisel to ascend the Zaha Hadid-designed Olympic ski jump, affectionately known as “The Cobra.” Enjoy a unique breakfast experience at Bergisel Sky, situated at the mouth of the serpent-like structure, providing breathtaking views of the city below.
Mid-morning Sightseeing
Engage a private, English-speaking guide for an introductory exploration of the city’s highlights, encompassing the Hofburg Palace, Hofkirche Church, the Cathedral, the Goldenes Dachl (‘Golden Roof’), the City Tower, and the Old Town.
Lunch
Indulge in Tyrolean authenticity at Kaiser Max, located on Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse. The sheepskin-covered chairs set against the backdrop of the Nordkette mountain chain create a quintessential setting. Savor a plate of gröstl, featuring sautéed potatoes, beef, and onions topped with a fried egg, accompanied by a side of coleslaw.
Afternoon
Take bus J from Maria-Theresien-Strasse toward Patscherkofel. Disembark at Igls Dorfmitte, near the disused cable car station, and embark on the well-marked 5.5-mile Heiligwasser circular hike, traversing some of Europe’s oldest and tallest pine trees. Navigate steep climbs, occasional dashes across snowy pistes, and revel in panoramic views from a pilgrimage church.
Cocktail Hour
Experience the magic of Innsbruck’s illuminated skyline from the 12th floor of Adlers Hotel. Sip on an Aperol spritz and soak in the twinkling lights below.
Dinner
Head to Restaurant Lichtblick, a glass cube atop RathausGalerien, offering 360-degree views of the city. Delight in modern international cuisine with seasonal highlights such as baked potato salad and saddle of salt meadow lamb with a herb crust.
3 More Peaks to Explore in Austria
Hinterglemm
Nestled within the expansive Skicircus region, Hinterglemm, located just outside Saalbach, stands as a serene resort boasting excellent nursery areas and a plethora of gentle pistes. Additionally, it provides the option to venture to Zell am See for a comprehensive day out. The Gartenhotel Theresia, an elegant establishment, offers children’s spa treatments, a crafts club, tobogganing, a swimming pool, and childcare services. Moreover, the ski school is conveniently situated just outside. Enjoy a seven-night stay starting from £1,619 per person, inclusive of full board, flights, and transfers.
Bad Gastein
As a historic town with natural hot springs that have enticed visitors for centuries, Bad Gastein is renowned for the Felsentherme complex. This facility features a 32C indoor pool embedded in prehistoric rock, along with saunas, steam rooms, and a children’s pool. The neighboring Alpentherme Gastein, in Bad Hofgastein, offers two outdoor thermal lakes for year-round swimming. The town’s exceptional ski area seamlessly connects the two thermal havens. Enjoy a seven-night stay at the charming Chalet-Hotel Tannenburg, starting from £753 per person, inclusive of flights, transfers, ski guiding, and dinner wine.
Gurgl
Embracing the collective name for high-altitude Obergurgl and Hochgurgl in Tyrol’s Ötztal Valley, Gurgl is merely an hour from Innsbruck. Obergurgl, situated at 6,330ft, and Hochgurgl, at 7,050ft, collectively offer skiing at an altitude of 9,940ft, featuring the futuristic Top Mountain Star bar with panoramic views of Italy. Skiing is virtually guaranteed from well before Christmas until late April. Opt for a seven-night stay at Obergurgl’s Apartmenthaus Madeleine, starting from £815 per person, self-catering, including flights and transfers.