Over the centuries, Sierra Leone has served as a refuge, attracting diverse ethnic groups such as the Limba, Mende, Loko, Susu, Fula, Temne, and Sherbro, seeking a haven untouched by the turmoil of Africa’s Sahelian kingdoms. This cultural amalgamation laid the foundation for a culinary journey that has significantly influenced Sierra Leone’s food history, often referred to as ‘Salone’ by its people.
The rich tapestry of cultures is vividly evident in the country’s bustling marketplaces, where vendors of various backgrounds coexist harmoniously. These vibrant spaces create a sensory symphony with the lively chatter of people, the hustle of transactions, and the tales being told. The air is permeated with the enticing scents of roast cassava, the sizzle of locally termed “fry fry” (fried foods), and the fragrances of spiced kankankan beef and marinated pepe chicken grilling. Amidst these aromas, the market air carries hints of diverse seasonings and the sweet subtleties of tropical fruits.
Having grown up in Freetown, the capital city, where such markets are prevalent, I experienced firsthand the unique history, culture, and cuisine that characterize this vibrant metropolis. Freetown, often hailed as the birthplace of Afro-fusion cooking, boasts a culinary landscape shaped by international trade, the influence of Muslim merchants, European colonization, and the return of slaves from places like Nova Scotia and Jamaica. The European impact is evident in delicacies like doughnuts and tapalapa (a baguette-like bread), while Lebanese traders introduced kibbeh (balls of bulgur wheat and meat), and returning slaves brought cassava bread.
Sierra Leone, however, offers more than just a diverse cultural tapestry. In this coastal nation, seafood plays a prominent role, significantly influencing our culinary landscape. From the flavorful fishball stew to the delightful huntu (steamed fishballs) and the zesty pepe snapper, the abundance of seafood is evident. Moreover, Sierra Leone boasts some of the world’s most stunning beaches. At locations like Lumley, situated on the outskirts of the capital, the enticing scents of lobster and crab intermingle with the invigorating ocean breeze.
A culinary exploration of Sierra Leone is aptly captured in “Sweet Salone — Recipes from the Heart of Sierra Leone,” authored by Maria Bradford and published by Quadrille (£30).
Here are some noteworthy dishes to savor:
Cassava Leaf Plasa
Pounded and shredded cassava leaves are expertly cooked in a blend of coconut oil, onions, ogiri (fermented oil seeds), butter beans, peanut butter, and a touch of okra. Enhanced with chili, this dish emanates an absolutely enchanting aroma, making it a national treasure.
Mokor
Originating from the Temne tribe, this sweet and savory green banana fritter has transcended tribal boundaries and become a popular item sold by street food vendors across the country.
Granat Cake
A ubiquitous snack peddled by street vendors, this peanut brittle delights with its simplicity, sweetness, and crunchiness — a perfect treat to share with friends or enjoy while strolling around.